THE PARISH OF LATHERON.
PRESPITORY OF CAITHNESS, SYNOD OF SUTHERLAND AND
CAITHNESS.
THE REV. GEORGE DAVIDSON, MINISTER.
Extent, &c. - The parish of Latheron is situated on the south-
east coast of Caithness, and bounded in that direction by the Ger-
man Ocean and Moray Firth, on the west by Sutherlandshire,
and on the north and east by the parishes of Halkirk Watten
and Wick. It is 27 miles in length along the sea coast, and from
10 to 15 in breadth, containing about 300 square miles.
Name - By the last Statistical Account the ancient name of
the parish is said to be "Loinn, derived from Luidhoin, which
signifies, in the Gaelic, lodged or bedded bear, because the lands
contiguous to the church are of a good quality, and yield excellent
bear." But there is another derivation, which has always appeared
to the present writer equally probable and rather more natural,
viz, from the Gaelic words Lathair Roin which signifies the res-
ort of seals, a species of animal with which the whole coast is
covered. Numbers of them are still taken, as will afterwards be
noticed, and no doubt, in former times, the oil obtained from them
afforded one means of support to the inhabitants. Besides, this
derivation seems to accord best with the Gaelic name Latharn,
and to admit of a more easy transition into the modern English
name of Latheron. But especially it will he found, by a reference
to the Norse or Icelandic language, that the derivation here pre-
ferred is much confirmed as to its probable correctness the words
in that language having very much the same meaning.
There is also another derivation suggested by the aspect of the
parish, which seems scarcely less probable than that now conjec-
tured, viz, from the Gaelic Lath-ar-shonn, signifying the day of
the slaughter of heroes, or Lathair Shonn the place of heroes.
Indeed, considering the ancient predilection for commemorating
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CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
the warlike achievements of heroes who had particularly singalized
themselves, together with the many relics of bloody warfare still
extant, this derivation has strong claims to a preference to the
former.
Topographical Appearance - The general aspect of the parish is
remarkably diversified, presenting a continued and frequently rapid
succession of hill and valley in which respect, it forms a strik-
ing contrast to all the other parishes in the county. In the western
extremity, in particular, the ravines are so deep and precipitous as
to render the access to them difficult and sometimes dangerous;
whilst in the same quarter, the hills and mountains of various height
and figure are in great abundance. Of the former the Ord of
Caithness, Brenahegleish, and Benachielt are of chief importance,
and of the latter Mor-bhien or Morven, Scaraben, and the Pap,
are most conspicuous. The view from their summits is very ext-
ensive, embracing, in a clear atmosphere, a great part of twelve
different counties, besides a vast range of the Atlantic and Ger-
man oceans. Of the three, Morven, as its Gaelic name indicates,
is by much the highest, and is supposed to be more than a mile
above the level of the sea, whence it is generally the first land
in this quarter seen by mariners, and, as a landmark, is of
great use in stormy weather. It is worthy of notice that, as
indicating wet or dry weather, it possesses the confidence of the
whole county. During harvest especially, all eyes are directed to-
wards it, and it never deceives. Near its summit, there is a del-
icious spring, which is very refreshing to the traveller exhausted in
gaining its top. The straths are numerous and very beautiful, par-
ticularly those along the rivers of Langwell, Berriedale, and Dun-
beath. Scenery more highly romantic and picturesque than that
on the two former is not to be met with in the north of Scotland.
They are admired by every traveller. Their steep banks were
also densely and extensively wooded, and still there is as much
remaining as to contribute to their beauty, if not to their value.
The whole line of coast is composed of bold and perpendicular
rocks, rising from 100 to 300 feet above the sea; forming
a barrier to the tremendous surge which frequently rolls in
from the ocean. It is also much indented, in consequence of
the numerous streams that flow from the interior, and at their junc-
tion with the sea form inlets more or less spacious. These afford
a very convenient shelter for the boats engaged in the herring fish-
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85
ing. The caves are numerous and some of them from 50 to 60
fathoms long. Very fine massive specimens of crystallized lime
have been taken from the tops and sides of them, and are still
preserved. But they are chiefly celebrated for the great numbers
of seals that frequent them at all seasons, which renders them not
merely convenient but often lucrative. The caves are usually vi-
sited in November, and entered by means of a boat during the
night when the seals are at rest. The boat is well manned with
experienced hands, having each a large piece of wood and a torch
or candle. They require to use great caution in approaching the
cave, as the seals are always on the alert, and upon hearing the least
noise rush forward with astonishing rapidity towards the sea, in
which they immediately disappear, putting the water into great agi-
tation. When the boat is perceived before taking the ground,
most of them escape in this way. As soon as the boat has ground-
ed, the men leap out with great agility, and, intercepting the seals
in their progress downwards, strike them on the head when they
instantly fall. On any other part the blow has no effect. In this
manner, several seals have been captured at a time; but of late
from twenty to thirty is considered a good taking.
The principal headlands are the Ord, Berriedale-head, and Clyth-ness.
Climate - The climate, generally speaking, is dry, and, for or-
dinary constitutions, extremely healthy; to which the elevation of
the land and the consequent rarity of the atmosphere much con-
tribute. These circumstances, however, seem to favour heavy
gales of wind which are frequently experienced, particularly from
the west and north-west. The temperature of the atmosphere
may be about 56 degrees Fahrenheit.
Considering the extraordinary density of the population diseas-
es are by no means frequent. Fever and rheumatism are certain-
ly most prevalent. It has been observed that the former is very
commonly carried by infection from the lower parts of the county,
and the latter appears to be much occasioned by the want of
warm clothing suited to the laborious habits of the people. For-
merly all the small tennants were in possession of a few sheep, and
by this means provided themselves with suitable clothing; but of
late, owing to the great increase of population, and the conse-
quent demand for land, their farms have been so reduced in ex-
tent by division and subdivision from year to year, that comparative-
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CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
ly few sheep can he kept by them, which, both in respect of food and
clothing is most disadvantageous. Instances of longevity are very
frequent, several persons now living are nearly 100 years of age,
and one man has completed his 105th year, and is still in possession
of all his faculties. As formerly stated, the Moray Firth forms
the boundary of this parish on the south-east. It varies in breadth
from 50 to 60 miles, possesses fine fishing grounds but in stormy
weather the sea is easily raised into what sailors call a short tumb-
ling swell, which frequently proves fatal to fishing boats. The
tides are of considerable rapidity, and may be about two hours and
three-quarters before Leith. Perennial springs abound throughout
the parish, and the temperature of such as have been tried was
found, some of the more copious at 54° and the less so at 56° and
58o. Many of them are much impregnated with iron. There are
three rivers in the parish, viz. Dunbeath, Berriedale and Langwell,
which abound with trout and salmon. They have their source
from twelve to sixteen miles from the sea, but are very small
insummer, though much swollen in winter, and very rapid. The
only lakes are Rangay and Stempster, in both of which there is plen-
ty of trout and eels. On the east side of the former, there are the
remains of a small fortification, which was evidently surrounded by
the water of the lake by means of a ditch and contiguous to the
latter are the ruins of a Druidical temple and the Arch-Druids
house.
Geology - The geological features of this parish are totally dif-
ferent from those of the rest of the county, and merit more notice
than the prescribed limits of this Account admit of. The greater
part of Caithness is what is called a secondary formation, consist-
ing chiefly of clay flagstone, having more or less calcereous matter,
with a few instances of of the red sandstone, elevated into lofty head-
lands at Dunnet and Duncansbay. On approaching the northern
boundary of the parish, betwixt Ulbster and Bruan, a great change
is observable in the physical character of the country. Beyond
this point, the southern portion of the county, embracing this parish,
along the eastern coast is hilly and much diversified. A number
of streams intersect it, swelling In the winter to a great size. The
elevated portion of this district rises from the knotty promontory
of Clyth-ness, and forms several irregular terraces, occupying the
north part of the parish. The lowest of these dip 25° to 30° in-
land while the higher and more rotund incline only 8° or 10°.
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87
Near the shore, blue calcarious flagstone occurs and is overlaid
by a series of sandstone beds of considerable thickness. Bena-
cheilt is the highest part of this region. and round it the strata are
arranged in a fan-shaped form, so that while the beds on the coast,
at Nottingham and Latheron, dip westerly, at Braehungay on the
south side of this hill they veer round to the N.E. against the
hill and still farther inland, at Achavanich the dip is ESE.
Between Latheron and Dunbeath, the beds rise into micaceous
sandstones alternating with blue calcareous flagstone. At the lat-
ter place they consist of bluish and gray close-grained sandstone,
with occasional alternating of greenish and bluish flagstones.,and
are prolonged into hills in the interior, distinctly resting upon the
old red conglomerate, or puddingstone of Braemore, connected
with the chain of mountains forming the southern boundary of the
county. Along the coast, the same slaty beds continue to prevail
in high cliffs, to the south of Berriedale. At Borgue, there is an
isolated mass of the old conglomerate, probably owing its existence
to the degradation of the nearest point of the Scarabins, a primary
mass of quartz rock. This range of high bare rock is clasped on
each side by the conglomerate series, composing nearly the whole
of the surrounding hills, which, being prolonged between the
Scarabins and the granite of the Ord, terminate in the cliff be-
tween Berriedale and Ausdale. The coast thence to the Ord is
occupied by red micaceous flagstone, succeeded by some beds of
red sandstone rising into a perpendicular cliff about 300 feet high
at Trefad. Masses of the conglomerate also present themselves
occasionally, particularly in the cliff at Badbea. Farther south,
the cliff again changes its character, and is occupied by great
crumbling masses of red marl and sandstone, containing a few
bands of bluish flagstone. These gradually pass into a strong red
sandstone, which is separated from the granite mass of the Ord by
a high cliff of conglomerate. The junction is nearly marked by
a cascade of the Ausdale rivulet, which tumbles into the sea from
the height of 100 feet over these conglomerate rocks.
The necessarily brief and imperfect outline here given affords
no adequate idea of the interesting geological character of this
district. To convey a more complete view of it would be in-
admissable here. It may be proper, however, to state that the
old conglomerate, composing the southern hills of this parish,
and stretching hence along the borders to the west side of the
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CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
county is considered as forming the lowest bed of the secondary
formation, being succeeded by beds of siliceous and calcereo-sili-
ceous flagstone and slate-clay, which occupies the great body of
the county from sea to sea, sinking at length under the highest or
uppermost of the secondary series, the new red sandstone of Dun-
net and Duncansbay Heads.
Soil - The soil varies considerably in nature and quality in dif-
ferent parts of the parish. On the estates of Langwell and Dun-
beath in the west end, it is generally of a sharp gravelly description,
and very dry. Latheronwheel and Latheron, being next in order,
are less gravelly, but sufficiently sharp and mellow. Forse, Swiney,
and Lybster rather wet and cold, having for the substratum a strong
tenacious clay, which renders it later in bringing the crops to ma-
turity; whilst the estate of Clyth in the eastern extremity very
much partakes of the dry, sharp loam of the centre and western
districts. Upon the whole, the soil may be pronounced shallow,
but easily wrought and, with good management capable of pro-
ducing all kinds of grain together with clover, turnips and pota-
toes. In many parts it abounds with detached rocks and large
stones, which form a serious obstacle to the plough; and though
much has been done towards the removing of them out of the cul-
tivated ground, yet still much remains to be done, and this circum-
stance presents a great discouragement in the way of improvement;
yet it is, nevertheless, progressing rapidly.
Zoology - Before the introduction of sheep farming, deer were
to be found in considerable numbers on the estates of Langwell,
Braemore and Dunbeath, but for many years back they are rarely
to be met with; but grouse, ptarmigan, and blackcock are in great
abundance. The salmon on the rivers are of uncommonly fine
quality. The rivers of Berriedale and Langwell unite when about
200 yards from the sea and it is remarkable that the native fish
of one river are rarely to he found in the other. At the spawning
season the salmon of both rivers seem to bear one another com-
pany till they come to the point of separation, where, from a cu-
rious peculiarity of natural instinct each selects its native stream.
There are about twenty different species of fish caught on the
coast. Those of greatest importance in an economical point of
view are herrings, cod, haddocks, skate, and flounders.
II - Civil History.
From the want of authentic records as to the early history of
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89
this parish, very little can be noticed under this head: Judging,
however, from the number and variety of the remains of those
places of strength which it contains, together with the other war-
like relics of barbarous and feudal times with which it is every-
where bestudded, there can be no doubt that it formed the scene
of many a well fought field. But, as usually happens in such
cases, tradition has been very fertile in supplying the lack of more
correct information. One tradition out of many may he noticed as
highly probable. It refers to the last invasion of this county by the
Danes. On that occasion they landed near the town of Thurso
under the command of the young Prince of Demnark, and the
natives, not being in sufficient strength to oppose them, retreated
across the county, followed by the invaders, till they came to the
hill of Benagheil, in this parish, distant twenty miles from Thurso.
By this time, the ranks of the natives having been greatly increased
in number, and being now in view of the coast where their retreat
must be stopped, deriving courage also from the very favourable
position they occupied on this hill, they resolved to try the fate
of a pitched battle. Having taken their ground, the enemy soon
come up and attempted to dislodge them, when they poured down
in one dense mass, broke the enemy's ranks, killed their leader,
and routed their whole force. A huge stone, placed perpendicular
in the ground, resembling a pillar, marks the place where the
Prince fell and from this occurrence the hill itself seems to de-
rive its Gaelic name Ben-a-gheil, signifying the hill where they
yielded or were overcome.
Eminent Men - One of the most eminent men known to have
been connected with this parish, was the late Sir John Sinclair of
Ulbsler, Bart, author of the former Statistical Account of
Scotland, the Code of Agriculture &c. &c. a man who was an
ornament to the age in which he lived, and of whom any parish
or county might deservedly boast Sir John was principal pro-
prietor in this parish, and the estate of Langwell, then in his pos-
session, was his favourite resort during the periods of his re-
sidence in the county. Here he commenced some of his earliest
and most extensive improvements in the several departments of
plantation agriculture and sheep farming, in the first and last
of which he completely succeeded and much of the beauty and
utility of this valuable property is owing to his spirited and perse-
vering exertions, seconded, as they were by the skill and good
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CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
taste of his successor, the late James Horne, Esq. of Langwell.
On Sir John Sinclair's merits as a man of varied talent, an able
and extensive author, an accomplished scholar, or skilful states-
man it is not intended here to enlarge, as the subject more pro-
perly belongs to his native parish of Thurso. He was possessed of
a singularly intelligent, active, and benevolent mind, insomuch
that no parish or district of country could have enjoyed his pre-
sence for any length of time without being benefited thereby.
Indeed, such was the quickness of his perception, and the warmth
of his philanthropy, that even in his passing visits to quarters
where he had no personal interest, he seldom failed to suggest
some measures for the improvement of the soil, and especially of
its inhabitants, and was always ready from his own resources, to
assist in carrying them into execution. Of this a very striking
instance occurred in the highlands of Perthshire, and was com-
municated to the writer when visiting the person with whom the
transaction-was entered into. On one occasion Sir John hap-
pened to be traveling along Loch Tay side, and observing
the country very densely peopled with small tenantry, and that
the lofty range of mountains, green to the very summits, with
which this beautiful lake is surrounded, were chiefly pastured by
sheep, inquired how the people, in so remote a quarter, disposed
of their wool; and being informed that each family employed one,
two, or three spinning wheels according to the number of females
it contained, it readily occurred to him that a spinning mill might
prove a great acquisition in the district, and find abundant em-
ployment. He accordingly sought out the ablest person for such
an undertaking, and was directed to a Mr McNaughton in the
vicinity of Kenmore. To him he immediately repaired, and, after
enumerating the advantages likely to arise to the whole neighbor-
hood from such a concern, together with the great probability of
its success, and the prospect of the employment which it held out,
strongly urged him to undertake it. This Mr McNaughton at
first declined, assigning as a reason, that neither he nor any other
individual in the place could afford to run the risk of a failure.
"Well" said Sir John, "but will you conduct it provided I take the
risk upon myself?" To this Mr McNaughton, after some hesita-
tion, assented. The mill was soon procured and, commenced ope-
rations and so completely were Sir John's predictions realized,
that in a few years thereafter, Mr McNaughton erected other two
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91
at his own expense in other parts of the country; a circumstance
no less gratitfying to the originator, than advantageous to the sur-
rounding community.
Land-owners - The chief land-owners of the parish are, Sir
George Sinclair of Ulbster, Bart; William Sinclair, Esq. of
Freswick; John Sutherland, Esq. of Forse; Donald Home, Esq.
of Langwell; Colonel Gordon of Swiney; Lord Duffus; Sir
Ralph A. Anstruther, Bart; Temple Frederick Sinclair, Esq. of
Lybster; and Donald Munro, Esq. of Latheron.
Parochial Registers - The earliest date of the parochial records
now extant is 1755. They have been pretty regularly kept till
1770. There is then a chasm of nearly thirteen years to 1783
after which they have, with few exceptions, been correctly kept;
especially since 1813 the entries are scrupulously correct.
Antiquities - From the great number of castles in this parish, it
would appear as if the chief strength of the county were concentrat-
ed in it. there are no fewer than eight of them along the sea-coast,
and for the most part built on the very brink of high and perpendicu-
lar rocks overhanging the sea and inaccessible from that quarter.
They were also so constructed as to admit of separation from the
land at pleasure, the chief connection being by means of a draw-
bridge. The greater number of them are now to ruins, but, from
the height, strength, and thickness of the walls of those that re-
main it may easily he conceived what a formidable obstacle they
presented to an invading enemy in those times, standing as they
do in such close succession. Beginning at the south, their names
are Berriedale, Achastle, Dunbeath. (still inhabited,) Knockinnan,
Latheron, Forse, Swiney, and Clyth. Several of them are still
celebrated for the warlike deeds of the brave, though ferocious,
original possessors, and it is highly instructive to contrast the se-
curity, peace, and tranquillity of those who now surround them,
with the insecurity, rapine, and bloodshed that prevailed in former
days. It is hardly necessary to add, that these ruins present not
the slightest traces either of the graces of ornament, or the
embellishments of art, which so tastefully adorn more modern archi-
tecture.
Modern Buildings - The only buildings of recent erection de-
serving of notice are the churches of Berriedale and Lybster. The
former is a Government church, of very neat construction, though
small in size. It was built in 1826 and contains about 300 sitters.
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CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
There is a very comfortable manse close by it. Both are very
compact, and a great ornament to the district in which they are
placed. The latter, viz. Lybster, was built by subscription in
1800. It is a substantial well-finished, and most comfortable
church. It contains 805 sittings, and cost L830. It is placed
in the village of Lybster from which it takes its name and to the
importance of which it contributes not less by its utility than its
acknowledged ornament.
III - Population
From the want of correct records it is impossible to ascertain
the ancient state of the population with accuracy. There can be
no doubt, however that it has been progressing during the last
century at a very rapid rate. It is stated in the former Statistical
Account, that the population had nearly doubled during the
seventy years preceding 1794, when it amounted to 4,006 and
such has been the extraordinary rapidity of the increase during
the forty years that have since elapsed that it is now fully double
that amount. Where this extraordinary increase of county po-
pulation is to terminate, and to what means a suitable provision is
to be made for their comfortable support, it is difficult to imagine.
At present there are no indications of a decrease, unless sheep
farming, which commenced some time. ago, should become more
general.
The chief cause of the recent astonishing increase in the
population is unquestionably the great and growing extent to
which the herring-fishing has been prosecuted along the whole
coast, and the extraordinary success with which it has generally
been attended. Upon its permanency or failure, therefore, main-
ly depends the future continued increase, or rapid decrease of the
population.
The present number of the population residing in villages is 555
In the rest of the parish 7445
The yearly average of births in the last seven years is 197
No record is kept of deaths
The yearly average of marriages is 52
The average number (in 1831) of persons under 15 years of age is 2899
between 15 and 30 1730
30 and 50 1501
50 and 70 791
upwards of 70 189
The number of proprietors of land with the yearly value of
L50 and upwards 9
Males unmarried upwards of 50 years of age 57
Females unmarried upwards of 45 years of age 348
Number of families in 1831 1408
Average number of children for each family in the parish 2
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Number of people employed in agriculture in 1831 1058
Number of fatuous persons, 20; blind, 3.
Language, Habits, &c. - The Gaelic language is generally
spoken by the lower class of people throughout the greater part
of the parish, but it has certainly lost ground during the last forty
years, and in proportion as the improved system of education ad-
vances, it will no doubt continue to decline still more. In proof
of this, the presbytery of Caithness have lately come to the deci-
cion to discontinue the preaching of the Gaelic language in the
eastern district of the parish ccupied by the mission of Bruan,
where a missionary was last year appointed who has no Gaelic.
Formerly the missionary always preached in both languages, but
in all probability, this system is not likely to be again resorted to.
It is a singular circumstance that for a long period, the burn of
East Clyth seems to have formed the boundry between the Gae-
lic and English languages. On the east side of it, scarcely a word
of Gaelic was either spoken or understood, and on the west side the
English shared the same fate; and this was the more wonderful,
as both sides were rather densely peopled. Now however the
English has not only made encroachments upon the Gaelic terri-
tory, but has extended itself over the whole neighbouring dis-
trict, and, indeed, were it not that its progress was consider-
ably impeded by the importation of several colonies of High-
landers from the heights of Kildonan and other parts of Suther-
landshire about twenty years ago, when the sheep system com-
menced there, its triumphs ere now, would have been still more
extensive.
A very decided improvement has, for many years back, been ob-
servable both in the external appearance and internal comforts of
the cottages of the peasantry. The old hovels are fast disappear-
ing, and neat substantial houses, having vents and chimney tops in
one or both ends are occupying their places. With these im-
provements in the accommodations and comforts of the people,
there has, as might naturally be expected, been a somewhat pro-
portional advance in their habits of cleanliness and manner of
dress, in both of which many of them display considerable taste
and neatness. Indeed, there is reason to fear that the youth of
both sexes are, in the article of dress, rather in danger of exceed-
ing their means. The ordinary food consists of oat and bear
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CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
meal, potatoes, and fish of various kinds of which there is usually
an abundant supply. In the latter article, few parishes are pos-
sessed of equal advantages, for, in addition to the opportunities of
obtaining white fish of excellent quality when the weather is mo-
derate, each family lays in a regular stock of from one to three
barrels of cured herrin, according to the number of persons of
which it consists. This, with pototoes, milk, and a moderate
quantity of bread, together with a little animal food occasionally,
forms a wholesome and nourishing diet at all seasons.
Considering the many disadvantages in respect to religious and
moral training under which this parish has long laboured; arising
from its immense extent, and the density of its population, crowd-
ed together, in many quarters in large masses, the extraordi-
nary lack of respectable and exemplary families located among
them, so necessary to give a tone to the morals of the lower
classes, the very unfavourable nature of their ordinary avocations
towards the fostering and maturing of religious habits, together
with the scarcity of competent instructors to maintain a strict and
continuous pastoral superintendence among them, - considering
these acknowledged disadvantages, it is wonderful and pleasing to
perceive the hold which religious principle and moral responsibility
possess over the people generally; whilst in very many particular
cases, the acuteness and intelligence discoverable on religious sub-
jects, combined, as frequently happens, with fervent and unobtru-
sive piety, are not less striking and refreshing to contemplate, than
diffusive and beneficial in their consequences. That instances of
ignorance and irreligion, attended by their natural offsrpring vice
and immorality, are to be met with, cannot be denied; but, in a
community so circumstanced, the great wonder is that they do
not prevail to a much greater extent. This is to be attributed,
under Providence, to the wholesome checks and remedies which
have more recently been applied, by extending, as far as possible,
the improved system of education, and providing additional facili-
ties of religious instruction and pastoral superintendence over the
more remote and destitute districts; a system which, even in its
infancy is already producing a marked improvement on the ha-
bits of the people generally.
Upon the whole the peasantry may be said to possess a tole-
rable degree of knowledge for their station in life. With few ex-
ceptions they are well acquainted with the catechisms and leading
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doctrines of our church, which maintain a powerful influence over
them in all the relations of life. In particular, their minds are
deeply imbued with suitable impressions of an overruling Provi-
dence governing all things according to the Devine will, a prin-
ciple which, whilst it moderates their joy in prosperity, power-
fully supports them under adversity. Of this there were innume-
rmble instances of a very pleasing nature during the three past
years, when, as is well known, the crops were almost a total fail-
ure all over the Highlands. The patient resignation and deep
submission with which this heavy calamity was born, could not
fail to excite the admiration of every attentive observer. Instead
of riot, robbery, and bloodshed, which in many other quarters fol-
low in the train of less formidable privations, here the public peace
was never disturbed; but, on the contrary, life, and even property
in general, were alike secure as in more favourable circumstances.
To behold 7000 people suffering under the most distressing des-
titution for three successive years, many families without a han-
dfull of meal in their houses for weeks together, others satisfied
with a little water-gruel once a day, and still nothing but quiet-
ness and submission prevailing, what a triumph for that sound
Scriptual education to which they are early habituated, and con-
sequent religious principle of which it seldom fails to be produc-
tive. A high veneration for the being, attributes, and worship
of the Deity is everywhere observable. The sanctity of the Sab-
bath is universally upheld. Scarcely a movement is to be seen
during that sacred day excepting to or from the places of public
worship, which are remarkably well attended. The important
duty of family worship, so necessary for the formation and
exhibition of the Christian character, is also very generally
observed.
But whilst it is truly pleasing to dwell upon the ascendency
which these principles and habits possess among the great body
of the peasantry, yet a regard to truth requires the admission,
however painful, that instances do occur, from time to time, of
a character directly opposite. Of these one of the greatest irregu-
larities is that of drinking ardent spirits, to which not few are
addicted, especially during the winter season. This degrading
practice was formerly occasioned by the extent to which the smug-
gling of whisky was carried on but the system of heavy fines or im-
prisonment, introduced many years ago in all cases of detection,
96
CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
was the means of checking it in a great degree. But this system
was soon relaxed on account of the expenses attending the im-
prisonment of delinquents. Then followed a more vigilant and
active surveilance on the part of the excise, particularly the inde-
fatigable exertions of one active officer, a Mr McMahon, whose
very name spread terror all over the county, from the Ord of
Caithness to John O'Groats, by the havoc he made upon this ne-
farious and demoralizing trade. He was neither to be bribed nor
deceived, and scarce a single case escaped his detection in the
whole range of the county. This has given the finishing blow to
smuggling in this quarter, and for several years not a single case
has occurred here. The good effects of this change are already
apparent in the districts where the practice most prevailed; but
it is only when the present generation shall have passed away, that
the full advantage shall be appreciated. Another practice attend-
ed with very pernicious effects is that frequently adopted by fish-
curers of giving from five to seven gallons of whisky to each boat's
crew during the herring fishing season, which, on an average, will
be at the rate of one bottle to each crew of four men every fishing
night, and although some have the prudence to reserve a consi-
derable part of it, yet others consume their whole allowance. By
this means, young men are led into drinking habits very early. It
is a great evil, and loudly calls for a remedy.
Poaching in the moors and rivers can hardly be said to exist
owing to the strict regulations adopted by the proprietors. In-
deed such is their authority over the tenantry, that it is complet-
ely in their power to suppress smuggling, thieving, and even habits
of excessive drinking at anytime, were they to put that authority
in vigorous execution, and to act in concert. But so far is this
from being always the case, as it certainly ought to be, that it is
no uncommon occurrence to see individuals notorious for one or
other of the above practices, when removed from one property
received on that immediately adjoining it; by which means they
sometimes become more injurious to that from which they have
been removed, (by theft for instance,) than if they had been per-
mitted to remain unmolested. Besides, how cruel is it towards
those among whom such characters are placed. Were certifi-
cates of moral character strictly insisted upon from every new te-
nant, many irregularities would be greatly checked, a precaution
urgently called for.
LATHERON.
97
IV - Industry
Agriculture and Rural Economy - Although the lands in this
parish are well adapted for agriculture and although it contains
several farms in the very highest state of cultivation, yet, as the
great body of its inhabitants are engaged in the herring-fishing,
and make the cultivation of the soil little more than a secondary
concern, it is, perhaps, less agricultural than many other parishes
in the county that are greatly inferior in extent, population, and
internal resources. Its pastoral qualities are peculiarly valuable,
and likely to be put in still more extensive requisition.
It contains fully 140,000 imperial acres of which about 9,090
are arable, and about an equal quantity capable of being made so,
though at a considerable expense, from the great number of rocks
and isolated large stones near the surface. There are probably not
more than 250 acres of undivided common in the whole parish,
and about 720 acres of wood of all descriptions; by far the greater
part of which consists of natural brush wood, chiefly along the ro-
mantic banks of the rivers Berriedale, Langwell, and Dunbeath.
At the former, however, there is a considerable extent of planted
wood of all kinds, and well attended to in respect to pruning &c.;
and at the latter, there is a tasteful plantation just laid out, which
will in a few years appear highly ornamental as well as usefull. At
Braemore and Latheronwheel also a good deal has been done, and
with considerable success; as also at Lybster, where neither pains
nor expense have been spared for many years back. But here the
roots have to contend with a less favourable soil, whilst the trees
themselves are much exposed from the want of natural shelter, the
ground being flat, and the soil damp and tennacious, two obstacles
formidable in an ungenial climate; yet there is a striking evidence
of what can be done by pains and perseverance.
Rent - The average rent of arable land is certainly very high,
considering the indifferent crops raised by the small tennantry ge-
nerally, it is about L.1,5s. per acre, more than can be realized
by the occupiers generally, but then the fishing is expected to
make up the deficiency. The rate of grazing may be about
L.2,10s. for a cow, and 9s. for a sheep on arable ground, and
15s. for a cow, and 3s. for a sheep on hill pasture.
Wages - Day labourers employed in ditching, draining or
roads usually receive at the rate of 2d. per hour, or 9s. per week.
Mason and carpenters from 2s. to 3s. per day; men and women
employed for harvest work, the former L.1,10s. and the latter L.1,
98
CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
with an allowance of meal and potatoes sufficient to support them
until the crops are secured. Farm-servants obtain from L.6 to
L.8 a year, according to their qualifications, and 6 bolls of meal
together with potatoes and a little milk. Women for household
work are from L.3 to L.4 with their victuals &c. in the family.
Breeds of Live-Stock - Much attention is now being paid to the
improvements of the breeds of sheep and cattle. Cheviot sheep of the
finest description are reared in the farms of Langwell and Dunbeath
and frequently obtain prizes at the shows at Inverness. On several
corn farms, crosses between the Leicester and Cheviot breeds are be-
coming common. The same system is pursued in respect to cattle,
and the crosses most in repute are between the Teeswater and
good Highlanders. For this description there is a ready demand
at good prices, and, in all probability, the great attention now paid
to the rearing of stock is only in its infancy. The great facilities
now afforded for the conveyance of stock by steam to the Edin-
burgh and London markets with such regularity and rapidity is
fast drawing forth the resources of this county generally, and every
parish in particular.
Husbandry - Although the greater portion of the land is occu-
pied by small tanantry, with whom the cultivation of the soil forms
but a secondary concern, yet there are several extensive and well-
managed farms in the parish, on which crops of the best descrip-
tion are raised. The six-year shift is that in most general use,
viz, turnip, barley or bear, two crops grass, one cut and the other
pastured, and two crops oats, one of potato or Hopetoun, and the
other of Angus or dun oats. Wheat is sometimes raised of good
quality; but in the general run of seasons it has not been found a
profitable crop, owing chiefly to the want of sufficient warm wea-
ther to bring into maturity. Pease and beans are also tried, and
sometimes succeed; but they may be considered a very precarious
crop, owing to the wet weather often experienced during harvest,
when it is extremely difficult to secure them in a good state.
Draining has of late been practised to a very great extent on
the principal farms, and with evident advantage. For example,
one small field of about four acres has been drained this year at
an expense of about L.20. Even furrow draining has been tried
on a small scale and in all probability will become more general.
Lime has been found most servicable on dry lands and has been
a good deal in use; but the depressed state of farm produce for
many years back has operated as a great discouragement to the
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99
use of this expensive but valuable manure. Considerable tracts
of waste ground have been reclaimed by almost all the proprietors
during the last twenty years; chiefly, however, with the view of
extending the farms under their own management. Among these
improvements none have been so perfectly executed as those on the
beautiful estate of Langwell, by the late proprietor, James Horne,
Esq. A considerable portion was trenched at a great expense
where the soil was shallow, and other parts of moor ground, hav-
ing from one to two feet of moss on the surface, were first plough-
ed, then burnt and laid down with a large allowance of lime,
carted a distance often miles. This was done twelve or fourteen
years ago, and has never yet been turned up, yet it continues to
retain a rich and close sward of pasture grass, without discovering
any symptoms of relapsing into its original heath, as so general-
ly happens when the work is done in a less perfect style. On the
estates of Dunbeath. Latheronwheel, Forse, Lybster, and Clyth,
much has also been done, though in a less expensive manner.
The system pursued by the smaller tenantry has in several respects
been improved of late. Instead of four small horses and a driver
to every plough, two horses without a driver are now, universal-
ly used. And, instead of the clumsy awkward plough formerly
in use, the neat iron plough is becoming very general. The land
is also better cleaned, although the rotation of oats and bear al-
ternately is very little changed; only a greater breadth of potatoes
is planted, and good white and dun oats have supplanted the old
black and gray inferior qualities. In a few cases also small patches
of grass are sown out after potatoes. This practice would speedi-
ly become general, were it not for the want of enclosures to pre-
serve the grass from being injured during winter, and that there
is no winter herding.
Leases - Leases of fourteen to nineteen years are granted on
the larger farms, but the small tenantry generally hold their farms
only from year to year, a system alike prejudicial to their com-
forts, and the interests of the proprietor. Short leases are, how-
ever, becoming more common, and will no doubt speedily become
universal.
The condition of some of the farm buildings is excellent, others
of them again are exceedingly bad. But, as in all other things con-
nected with rural economy, there has been a progressive improve-
ment of late. The same observations are applicable to the enclosures.
These chiefly consist of stone fences together with whin and thorn
100
CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
hedges. Most of the stone fences are old and decayed, and do not
suit the improved system of keeping a suitable portion of each
farm under sheep. Should the present system be persevered in,
as is most probable, they will require to he renewed. Indeed, this
is to commence immediately on the farm of Clyth, the property
of Sir George Sinclair, where a new farm steading and proper en-
closures are forthwith to be erected on a new lease of that excel-
lent farm. All the new houses are slated, and in other respects
most commodious.
Improvements - The principal improvements which have taken
place within the last thirty years, in as far as agriculture is con-
cerned, may be briefly enumerated as follows: fully 2000 acres of
waste ground reclaimed; better accommodations in farm-buildings;
a vast extent of enclosures executed; agriculture much more sys-
tematically and advantageously pursued; more attention given to
the culture and clearing of the land; draining practised, much
more extensively, and executed in a more skilful style; better breeds
of horses, cows, and sheep; superior facilities both for expedition
and security in conveying them to the southern markets; a much
wider breadth of turnips sown and heavier crops raised, and con-
sequently a much larger quantity of stock reared and fed, and fit-
ted in a much shorter time for the butcher. After shipping the
stock at Wick in the morning, it is possible for them to be shown
in the Edinburgh market next afternoon; thus accomplishing in
the astonishingly short period of thirty hours what used to occupy
nearly as many days, to the much greater damage of the stock.
Great as these improvements are, nothing but the want of ca-
pital prevents their proceeding at a much more rapid rate, and
were additional encouragement to be given by proprietors, by grant-
ing leases to the small tenantry on reasonable terms, a great deal
more might be done, even upon the existing resources of the peo-
ple. One of the greatest obstacles with which the spirit of im-
provement has now to contend, is the non-residence of almost all
the proprietors; a circumstance which did not exist to the same
extent until very recently; and hence the same interest can hard-
ly be expected to be taken, either in promoting the comforts of
the inhabitants, or in reclaiming or ornamenting the lands. But it
is hoped that this inconvenience may only be of short duration.
Fisheries - There are four descriptions of fisheries prosecuted in
this parish, viz, the herrin, cod, salmon and lobster. Of these
the herrin fishery is the most considerable, forming as it does,
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101
the principal source whence the revenue of the parish is derived.
This fishing commences about the middle of July, when the her-
rin usually make their appearance in small shoals on the coast,
and continues till the middle of September. Great numbers of
young men come from Assynt in Sutherlandshire and Lochbroom
and Lewis in Ross-shire to engage as hired hands. They are
employed by the owners of the boats to make up the boats' crew
along with themselves, and receive from L.3 to L.4 each for six
weeks, besides their victuals. Each boat carries four men and is
furnished with from twenty to thirty eight nets, according to the
size of the boat. A good boat costs L.50, and her drift of nets
L.76; a sum too large for one individual, and consequently there
are generally two and sometimes more who share in the same boat.
They usually last in a seaworthy state about twelve years, and
the nets six years. No employment can be prosecuted with great-
er spirit and assiduity; and few scenes are more enlivening both
on land and water, than it occasions, especially when any measure
of success attends the labours of the fishermen. The boats usu-
ally leave the shore from five o'clock to seven o'clock in the after-
noon, according to the direction of the wind and the distance at which
the fish are supposed to be found, and shoot their nets about dusk.
In this state they remain, with the boat attached to each drift by
means of a head rope, and slowly carried east or west by the tide,
until about three o'clock the next morning. Then all hands are em-
ployed in hauling in the nets and fish at the boat's stern, where
they remain together, dispersed all over the boat till it comes to
shore, when they commence the operation of disengaging the fish
from the meshes of the net by shaking the nets. This ope-
ration is frequently performed at the time of hauling the nets
should time and the weather permit. The herring being thus
separated from the nets, are immediately landed and deposit-
ed in the curing box, where a number of women are engaged in
gutting and packing them in barrels with salt. Having deli-
vered their fish, they bundle up their nets, carry them on shore
and spread them out carefully one over the other. Here they re-
main to dry, until taken up again in the afternoon to be used as
formerly. After securing their boats they return to their homes,
take some refreshment, and a few hours repose, as their time per-
mits and proceed to take up their nets and put to sea again for
the next nights fishing. In this manner they proceed for five suc-
cessive nights every week. Sometimes, however, when the quan-
102
CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
tity of fish to be delivered is large, they do not get to bed for days
together. This makes it a very fatiguing and even oppressive em-
ployment. But the prospect of success is so very enticing, that
it is submitted to with wonderful cheerfulness.
The boats used in this parish may contain from 30 to 50 crans
or barrels (both are neariy alike,) of herrings, and it is diffi-
cult to say which of the sights is most pleasingly interesting to
a stranger, that of beholding on a fine evening the whole coast,
as far as the eye can reach, covered with human beings in their
little barks, as they issue forth from every creek, and disperse in
different directions, full of life; that of attending at one of the
stations in the morning, and witnessing the return of 40, 60, or
100 boats, all crowding into one creek, most of them, perhaps,
laden with fish to the gunwale, and then the scene of bustle and
animation that succeeds and continues till night! And what
ought not to be omitted as being still more delightful to a serious-
ly contemplative mind, it is not unusual, where there are boats
having individuals of acknowledged piety, for the crew to en-
gage in worship after shooting their nets. On these occasions
a portion of a psalm is sung, followed with prayer, and the effect
is represented as truly solemn and heart-stirring, as the melodious
strains of the Gaelic music, carried along the surface of the
waters, (several being similarly engaged,) spread throughout the
whole fleet.
But not unfrequently the scene is sadly reversed, for in the
midst of the joys of life, we often are in death. A storm suddenly
arises during the night. The boats are all riding quietly at their
nets and unprepared to meet it. Some endeavour to haul their
nets, others cut from them, and make for the place of great-
est shelter, whilst others, afraid to put up sail and encounter it,
abide by their nets in the hope of the storm's abating. In propor-
tion to the danger at sea, are the confusion and anxiety on land.
The shores are instantly crowded by inquiring relatives, hurrying
from place to place in search of husbands, brothers, or sons.
Astonishing instances of preservation often occur; but no season
passes without serious losses to individuals, either of boats, or nets,
and sometimes of lives. The risks are very great, and the em-
ployment, even when successful, most trying to the constitution.
The following presents a pretty correct state of the fishing of
1838 at the different stations in the parish. The fishing stations
with the boats attached to each are, Dunbeath, 70; Latheron-
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103
wheel, 35; Forse, 32; Swiney, 10; Lybster, 101; Clyth, 53;
and East Clyth, 18: in all, 325 boats. Connected with these
there are 1321 fishermen, 106 coopers, 937 women as packers,
and 178 labourers, in all 2540 persons, besides about 50 fish cur-
ers, many of whom take an active part in the business. The
number of barrels cured at all these stations in 1838, was 39,093,
exclusive of the fish cured by the fishermen and others at their
own houses, which may be estimated at about 2800 barrels, be-
sides quantities of green fish purchased at all the stations by
strangers from all parts of the county in exchange for cash, milk,
butter, cheese, &c. &c. - say 907. The average price per cran
of green fish was 9s., and that per barrel when cured, L.1. The
barrels are made at the different stations, the hemp spun and the
nets wrought in the fishermen's families during the winter and
spring months. From all this, it may be conceived what an en-
grossing and important concern the herring fishing has become in
this parish.
But, notwithstanding these advantages, which are confessedly
great in a temporal point of view, yet it is very doubtful whether
they are not more than counterbalanced by the pernicious effects
upon the morals of the people, which never fail to result from this
employment, especially the young of both sexes. No doubt the
sound religious education now becoming so general, has a ten-
dency to counteract such habits. Indeed, this is already appa-
rent, and it is to be hoped, if persevered in, will become still more
so. At all events, as matters now stand, it is evident that the
failure of the fishing would be attended with the most ruinous con-
sequences, so that it becomes no less the duty than the interest of
the landed proprietors, whilst encouraging the fishing, by which
the value of land has been so greatly enhanced, to afford every
practicable facility to the diffusion of knowledge, by means of edu-
cation and religious instruction both to young and old. These
have ever been found the best safeguards of morality in a country,
and are the surest means of rearing and perpetuating an enlighten-
ed, intelligent, and industrious peasantry.
The cod fishing is not carried on to any great extent, although
there are immense quantities to be found on the coast, particu-
larly at the commencement of the herring fishing. At this pe-
riod there are a good many caught; but as soon as the herring ap-
pear in such numbers as to induce the fishermen to their
nets then the cod-fishing is deserted, that of the herring being
104
CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
much more profitable. On an average there may be about
10,000 cod cured in a season, for which 6d. each may be ob-
tained.
Lobsters also are in great abundance, and frequently many of
them are taken in boxes; but this trade is little attended to, as the
herring trade has been the all-engrossing business for many years back.
There are two salmon fishing stations in the parish, vis. at
Berriedale and Dunbeath, the former belonging to Mr Horne of
Langwell and the latter to Mr Sinclair of Freswick. At Berrrie-
dale, salmon and grilse are frequently caught in great abundance,
particularly since the herring-fishing was discontinued there. It
is rented by the messers Hogarth of Aberdeen, and the fishing at
Dunbeath by Mr Martin of Dundee, the former at L.275, and
the latter at L.27, This great difference in rent is chiefly occa-
sioned by the herring-fishing at the latter place having a ten-
dency to annoy the fish, and frighten them from the shore. In
other respects, Dunbeath seems the preferable station, as the chan-
nel of the river is always open. The fish on both rivers are good,
that of Berriedale particularly so. Very few of them are sold in
the parish, on account of the high price demanded; salmon 1s., and
grilse 6d per lb. They are kitted and sent to the London market.
Raw Produce - It is difficult to ascertain with accuracy the
precise amount of raw produce raised in the parish; but an attempt
has been made to approach it pretty nearly, though with consider-
able difficulty, under the following heads:
Grain of all kinds, about 11,882 qrs. at L.1,5s. quarter L.14,852 0 0
Potatoes 4535 boils at 10s. per boll, 2,267 10 0
Turnips, 256 acres at L6. per acre, 1,416 0 0
Hay, meadow and cultivated, 40,900 stones at 6d. per stone, 1,007 10 0
Land in pasture to graze, 3765 cows at L.1 each, 3,765 0 0
Do. do. 12,000 sheep at 5s. each, 3,000 0 0
Fisheries - herrin 42,800 crans at 9s. per cran, 19,260 0 0
Do. cod 10,000 at 6d each L.250; salmon rented at L.302 552 0 0
Miscellaneous produce not enumerated above, 750 0 0
---------
Total yearly value of raw produce raised, L.46,870 0 0
V - Parochial Economy
Market Town - There is no market town in the parish. The
nearest to it is Wick, the county town, which is at the medium
distance of twenty miles. Several villages have been projected,
but none of them have yet arisen to any consequcece except Lyb-
ster, which contains many excellent houses, and a population of
fully 400 individuals. Several new buildings are now in progress,
and many of the inhabitants are very respectable. It was com-
LATHERON.
105
menced by the late proprietor, Lieutenant-General Sinclaire, in
1802; but it is only within the last twenty years that the spirit of
improvement has been particularly called forth. It is now a ris-
ing place, and evidently promises to be of considerable conse-
quence at no very distant period; should the herrin-fishing con-
tinue to flourish of which there is every prospect.
Means of Communication - There are two post-offices in the
parish, viz. Dunbeath and Lybster, the former of old establish-
ment, and the latter more recent.
The great north road runs from one extremity of the parish to the
other, a distance of twenty eight miles along the coast, and is of im-
mense importance in facilitating the means of communication. The
mail-coach from Inverness to Thurso has continued to run since
the completion of this road, about twenty two years ago. The
weekly communication by steam from Leith and Aberdeen to
Wick and Orkney, has considerably lessened the number of pas-
sengers by the coach.
The bridges along the Parliamentary and county roads are kept
in excelent repair.
Harbours - Considering the vast importance of this coast in a
commercial point of view, the great number of vessels that fre-
quent it in connection with the fisheries, and the many risks to
which life and property are exposed in consequence of its bold,
rocky, and exposed character, it is much to be regretted that so
little has hitherto been done in order to obtain safe and commo-
dious harbours. With the exception of a neat little pier at Clyth,
which is occasionally of service in loading vessels in very mode-
rate weather, the only attempt that has yet been made in this way
is at Lybster, where the proprietor, T. Frederick Sinclair, Esq. has,
in a very spirited manner, and at considerable expense, been en-
gaged for several years back in providing a harbour for the en-
couragement of the increasing trade and population of that place.
This has been effected by running a stone pier of about 300 feet
in length along the west bank of a rivulet which runs into the sea
at this place, and which formerly was usually choked up by the
shifting beach, now confined behind the pier. By this means
the shelter and acoommodation have been effected for upwards of one
hundred boats of from ten to fifteen tons burden, besides admit-
ting decked vessels of one hundred tons burden. Whithin the last
three years, from sixty to eighty of the latter have loaded and dis-
charged cargoes during the summer and harvest seasons and it
106
CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
is supposed that it is practicable, by a small additional outlay, to
deepen the harbour so as to receive vessels of the necessary ton-
nage even at low water. The value of such an improvement on
the coast would be incalculable, considering the thousands of in-
dividuals engaged in the herring fishing. At present, there is not
a single place to run to at low water, when vessels or boats are
suddenly overtaken with a heavy storm, as not unfrequently hap-
pens, to the great loss of life and property. Dunbeath is also
remarkably well calculated for a harbour and in all probability
the time cannot be far distant, when something on an extensive
scale will be attempted there. Nature has done her part admir-
ably, and it only requires the hand of art to turn her varied re-
sources to good account. Petitions have this year been numerous-
ly signed and sent to the Admiralty, praying the appointment of
a survey of this coast, in order to select one or more of the fittest
stations with the view of erecting harbours for the protection of
property, and the lives of the fishermen, now exposed to such im-
minent hazard. Should these applications succeed, as it is to be
hoped they eventually will, then a new era will arise with respect
to agricultural and commercial pursuits, and it will only require
the united efforts of enterprising and intelligent men to occupy
the field thus opened up, and call forth a spirit of industry hither-
to unexampled in this quarter.
Ecclesiastical State - The parish church is situated close by the
sea, and is seventeen miles from the western extremity of the pa-
rish, eleven miles from the eastern, and ten from the northern ex-
tremity. It is, however, sufficiently centrical for the population,
though it must be obvious from the great territorial extent, that
comparatively few of the inhabitants, were they soley dependent
upon it, could derive much benefit on account of the distance to
which they are removed. The church seems to have been built
about the year 1734. It received a large addition by way of an
aisle in 1822 and was, besides, new roofed and new seated. It may
contain about 900 sitters, and no seat rents have been demanded
since it received extensive repairs in 1822. It is one of the large-
st and most commodious country churches in the county. The
only thing wanted to its comfort is that of having it ceiled above,
which it is hoped may, ere long, be accomplished.
The manse was built about forty years ago, and is a substantial
building with sufficient accommodation. The glebe consists of
15 acres of arable land. Its extent was a little increased by an
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107
excambion about fourteen years ago and it may be worth about L.20
per annum. The amount of the stipend is 16 chalders, the one half
meal and the other barley, with L.10 for communion elements.
As stated under a former head, there is a Government church
at Berriedale in the west end of the parish. It was built in 1826,
and accommodates 300 sitters. The district connected with it
now forms a quoad sacra parish. Inconsequence of some of the
families having been removed since the church was built, it is now
too remote for the more populous districts connected with it, but
is, not withstanding, still very useful and were a small church to
be erected in the eastern quarter, where the minister could preach
every alternate Sabbath, it would be still more so. There is an
excellent manse near the church, as also a garden and small
glebe. Both the latter were furnished by the late proprietor Mr
Home of Langwell, and are continued by his successor Mr Do-
nald Home. The stipend, amounting to L.120, is paid by Govern-
ment, and the population is fully 1400. There was also a church
built at the village of Lybster in 1836 by subscription, and the
district connected with it constituted a parish quoad sacra. It is four
miles east of the parish church, has a regular minister settled in
it, and a population exceeding 2500 souls. A manse has not yet
been built, nor a glebe assigned, but the minister has been pro-
vided with a good house in the meantime, and a stipend of L.100
per annum, which is paid from the seat-rents. The church is a
neat, commodious, and well furnished building, constructed of the
best materials. It contains 805 sitters, and the contract price was
L.830, all of which was cleared off the same year in which the
house was finished. Its great utility in that district is universally
acknowledged. All the seats are let, the church crowded, and
yet the parish church as well attended as formerly. This is the
only attempt hitherto made, on the Church extension plan, in any
of the counties north of Inverness, and it has suceeded far beyond
the most sanguine expectations of its promoters. How long the
people, who are almost all composed of the poor and working
classes, may be able to afford seat-rents equal to their minister's
stipend, must depend upon the future success of the herring-fish-
ing. It is hoped, however, that Government will ere long see the
expediency and necessity of appropriating a small sum by way of
stipend to assist such necessitous places. The proprietors con-
nected with the district contributed liberally towards its erection,
as also several others both in and out of the parish, together with
108
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the whole body of the inhabitants of this and the other parishes of
the county. It was a favourite measure, in which all felt interest-
ed; and it would have delighted the writer to record here the
names of all the principal subscribers could it be admitted, in tes-
timony of the grateful sense he entertains of the handsome and
cordial manner in which his appeals in behalf of this important
object were responded to by all classes.
There is a mission on the establishment of the Society in Scot-
land for Propagating Christian Knowledge, at Bruan, in the east-
ern extremity of the parish. This station was formeriy connected
with Berriedale, where the missionary resides. The disjunction
took place in 1826, when the Government church was erected at
the latter place. A comfortable manse has been erected at Bruan
for the missionary which cost L.232 and the expense was defrayed
by the people connected with the district. A glebe of four acres
of excellent land was handsomely made over to the mission by the
late Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, Bart, whose estates are chiefly
benefited thereby. The mission house stands on the boundary
betwist this parish and Wick, and now accommodates about an
equal number from each parish. The church is seated for 600;
The population from both parishes is 1800, and the mission is one
of the most compact anywhere to be found. The present mis-
sionary's stipend has recently been augmented to L.100, only L.25
of which is paid by the Society, the remainder is paid, or at last
promised, by the people, and raised from the seat-rents as
far as those can be realized. This district also ought to be made a parish
quoad sacra, more especially as it is now completely disjoined from
the parish church, by that of Lybster intervening betwixt them.
About 350 of the inhabitants of the interior of the parish are
connected with the Royal Bounty Mission of Dirlot, in the parish
of Haikirk, and attend public worship at the meeting-house of
Halsary where a new and more suitable house is about to be built
and is much needed.
There are four catechists in the parish. They are appointed
by the kirk-sessions, with the consent and approbation of the peo-
ple among whom they labour, and by whom they are are paid. There
are no Dissenting or Seceding chapels in the parish. An attempt
was made a few years ago to introduce dissent into the village of
Lybster, where the most strenuous exertions were made and great
expense incured by the United Secession body to establish a con-
gregation, but it has signally failed, and is now given up as hope-
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109
less. This might have been foreseen from first as there were no
members of that or any other Dissenting denomination there and
the inhabitants generally neither desired nor countenanced such
a measure.* With the exception of a few strangers who may
settle among them, the people are most devoted and con-
scientiously attached to the Established Church, to which the
whole population, of 8000, belong, with the exception of about
twelve families in the eastern extremity of the parish. One, and
sometimes both the heads of these families usually attend the Se-
cession church at Wick, but the young people belonging to them
generally attend at the mission of Bruan on Sabbath. Consider-
ing the poverty of many of the inhabitants, excepting those from
the very remote districts where meetings are frequently kept by
the catechists or others for the convenience of the people, divine
service is remarkably well attended in the several places of wor-
ship. On this subject it is recorded, with peculiar satisfaction,
that, within the last few years a marked improvement has
taken place in the attendance of the young, and there is every
reason to hope that it will be progressive. This is to be attribut-
ed not merely to the public exhortations addressed to parents
from the pulpit, but also to the more than ordinary attention of
the parochial and other schoolmasters in inculcating this most im-
portant duty upon their scholars.
The average number of communicants has varied from 130 to
180 during the last seven years. The fewness of their number is
to be ascribed to the feelings of reverential awe with which they
view this solemn ordinance, and the diffidence they experience as
to their being possessed of the necessary qualifications for engag-
ing in it.
The yearly collections for the poor may be averaged at L.52,
and those for religious purposes at L.30
Education - Hitherto there has been only one parochial school
in this extensive parish. There are, however 14 unendowed and
three Society schools; two supported by the General Assembly,
and one by the Society in Scotland for Propagating Christian Know-
ledge; in all 18 besides a few female schools where reading as well
as needle-work is taught. The languages and the higher branches
of mathmatics are taught in the parochial and Assembly's schools,
*Since the above was written the United Secession have returned to Lybster in
the hope of better success, as the church there is about becoming vacant by the
translation of its able and popular minister to the Gaelic Church in Edinburgh.
110
CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
when required; but only the elementary branches in those unen-
dowed; and many of the latter being in remote districts where the
people are very poor, are kept open during only six months of the
year, viz. winter and spring. In all the schools the Scriptures
are read daily, and the catechisms taught. The salary of the pa-
rish teacher is the maximum, and the fees may amount to from
L.20 to L.30 a year. That of the Society teachers is from L.20
to L.25 each, and their fees from L.8 to L10. The unendowed
teachers are by far the worst paid; their enrolements may average
from L.3 to L.4, including fees, though usually they have their
victuals in addition. From the smallness of their enrolements it will
readily be conceived that the acquirements of these teachers can
not be great. They are selected from the most talented and pro-
mising of the scholars in attendance at the parish school, where
they are again to be found in attendance how soon their own schools
close in the beginning of summer. Here they spend the sum-
mer and harvest in revising their former studies, and adding as
much as possible to their stock of already acquired knowledge.
By these means they return with fresh vigour and increased re-
sources to their former stations in winter. Thus they continue to
advance in the higher branches of education until qualified for the
Society or even parochial schools. But to these schools again,
the different districts look for other young men to supply their
places, so that the district schools are a kind of nurseries for the
more advanced seminaries, which in their turn liberally repay the
debt they have incurred. There have been five of these district
teachers prosecuting their studies most creditably at the university
for several years back.
It is proper to notice that there is another parochial school
being built at Dunbeath; in connection with the Government pa-
rish of Berriedale. Mr Sinclair of Freswick, at the recommen-
dation of his curators, has, in the handsomest manner agreed to
bear the whole expense of furnishing the necessary accommoda-
tions. These will at least cost L300; they are upon a scale more
than ordinarily liberal, and will he finished this season. The be-
nefits to result from such an establishment in that quarter, it is
difficult to calculate, and the example of Mr Sinclair and his li-
beral minded curators cannot be too highly recommended. From
the exertions made in furnishing the means of education, there
are few of the young who cannot read; the greater number also
learn to write; but among those who are far advanced in life,
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111
there is a considerable number who can neither read nor write.
The people in general are certainly alive to the benefits that
arise from a good education, and therefore make considerable ex-
ertions according to their small means, for supporting schools
among them. No doubt several of the unendowed schools are
of very inferior quality, as may be expected from the triffling re-
muneration that some districts can afford, so that what is wanted
is not so much additional schools as additional salaries and con-
sequently better qualified teachers. Without the former, it is
hopeless to attempt to raise the character of the latter beyond
what has already been done. There are four stations at least,
where Society schools could be most advantageously located, and
for which applications have frequently been made, though hitherto
without effect. It has already been observed, that the improve-
ment in the conduct and morals of the young people is everywhere
recognized by those who are acquainted with the parish; and that
this change is in a great measure to be ascribed to the additional
facilities and improved system of education, cannot be doubted.
The proprietors have already done much, and it is to be hoped,
that the altered state of society for the better will encourage them
to persevere, until all the scattered hamlets of this extensive and
populous parish, second perhaps to no landward parish in Scot-
land, are brought under the influence of a sound, moral, and re-
ligious education.
Having already noticed the recent improvements of an agri-
cultural nature under that head, it may not be improper here, to
enumerate briefly those of an ecclesiastical and educational na-
ture, which have taken place during the last twenty years, being
the period of the incumbency of the present writer. The parish
church remodelled and greatly enlarged, a Govermnent church,
manse, and glebe, established at Berriedale, and that district
formed into a quoad sacra parish, with a seperate mimster, a
new church built at Lybster, with a separate minister settled
there, and also formed into a quoad sacra parish, the mission
of Bruan, confined to that station, instead of two as formerly, and
a commodious manse built for the missionary, with a suitable
glebe attached; all of these ministers, actively and laboriously
engaged in communicating religious instruction and discharging
the duties of pastoral superintendence among the people. As to
education there has been a new parish school, with schoolmaster's
accommodation erected; another parochial school in the course
112
CAITHNESS-SHIRE.
of erection at Dunbeath; an Assembly school established at Ber-
riedale with schoolmaster's accomodation; another Assembly
school similarly provided at Reisgill, together with eight unen-
dowed schools in different localities; the general qualifications
of the teachers considerably raised; the system of teaching vastly
improved; and, consequently, the number of scholars almost in-
credibly increased: the general average exceeds 1200. But still
much remains to be done in both departments; and as it is pleas-
ing to reflect, that, in carrying forward these improvements, the
harmony and good understanding subsisting betwixt the heritors
and the present incumbent have never been interrupted; a circum-
stance not a little creditable to the heritors, considering how many
demands were necessarily made upon them; so it is to be hoped
that the same cordiality and good feeling will be mutually main-
tained in prosecuting those that are still in contemplation. The
readiness with which they have promoted these improvements is
very commendable.
Friendly Societies - There are two of these of long standing,
one at Dunbeath and the other at Lybster. In many instances
they have been remarkably useful, both in respect to widows and
orphans, and also the aged and infirm; but for several years back
they have not been becoming more flourishing, either as to members
or funds. However, it is to be hoped that they may yet revive.
Poor and Parochial Funds - The number of persons at present
on the poor's roll is 202; each of whom only receives at the rate
of from 4s. to 8s. at the time of distribution, which is once a year.
Such of them as are able make their rounds through the parish
occasionally in order to obtain aid from those families whose cir-
cumstances enable them to assist them; and those that are bed-
ridden or infirm have assistance sent them by the charitable and
well disposed around them. There being no parochial assessment
the collections made at the church doors, together with the inte-
rest arising from a few benefactions, furnish the funds from which
the poor recieve the small pittance which can be assigned them.
The average church collections may amount to L.52 yearly, and
the insterest from benefactions to L.18. The latter consist of
L.100, left many years ago by the late Rev. Dr James Oswald
of Glasgow; L.100 by the late John C. Southerland Esq. of
Forse in this parish; L.100 by Conductor Sutherland of North
America; and L.40 by Mr Alexander Finlayson Maodonald of
same place. Much to the credit of the poorer classes they very
LATHERON.
113
generally manifest a strong disinclination to seek relief from the
poor's funds. There is a degree of virtuous pride as well as
strong natural affection very prevalent which induces the children
to support their aged and infirm parents to the utmost of their abi-
lity; and when applications are made for parochial relief, the
cases are usually found to be very necessitous. This feeling is
always encouraged, and its opposite discountenanced by the kirk
session, by every possible means. Hence, in ordinary seasons,
very few indeed apply for certificates of poverty and it is truly as-
tonishing among such a large population, almost solely composed
of the poorer classes, how very few are to be met with, asking cha-
rity. The numbers of this description from the south are very
great, and generally of very indifferent character; but resolutions
have recently been entered into by the county gentlemen, with a
view of checking this great grievance, which, it is hoped, will have
the desired effect. No year passes without many gross deceptions
being practised upon the unsuspecting inhabitants, by designing
persons of this description.
Fairs - There are four fairs held in The parish for general purposes,
two at Dunbeath and two at Lybster, during the year.
Inns - There are not fewer than 26 public houses, for retail-
ing spirits, &c. in the parish, when six would have been quite
sufficient for every necessary purpose.
Fuel - Almost all the fuel used consists of peats. The ex-
pense attending its manufacture and carriage makes it ultimately
very little cheaper than coal; only, it is more convenient being
always at hand.
October 1840.
ADDENDA
The following is a list of the Ministers of the parish:- 1637,
Gilbert Anderson; Mr Munro; 1652, John Ross, translat-
ed Inverness in 1663; 1687 Niel Beaton, died 1715; 1717,
Andrew Sutherland, died 1732; 1734, James Brodie, died 1773;
1775, Robert Gun, died 1819; 1820 George Davidson.
There are no Crown teinds in Latheron; but there are unap-
propriated teinds belonging to other persons which ammount to
nealy L40.